10 Things to Avoid When Cutting Art Glass for Fusing - Part 1

by Arlene Holtz

How to Make Your Glass Cutting Experience More Effective and Fun

Some people have learned glass cutting as part of an introductory stained glass or glass fusing class or workshop. Others have only learned the very rudimentary skills in a trial-and-error fashion, or by a friend giving them a few pointers and maybe (if you are lucky) a demonstration.

People who, out of an inborn moderation, leave every glass standing only half-emptied refuse to admit that everything in the world has its sediments and dregs.
—Friedrich Nietzsche (1844–1900)

This guide is meant to give you some basic rules and guidelines to make your experience a lot more pleasant and successful. I am writing this based on my 25+ years of experience in working with art glass, both stained (copper foil and lead came techniques) and fused glass. I have come to love cutting glass. In fact, it is my favorite part of the process.

So, here is what NOT to do when cutting any glass, especially art glass:

1. Avoid pressing too hard when you make the score in the glass. You will know you are pressing too hard because the score line will be a VERY visible "scratch" and you may even see tiny shards of glass flying away from the score line as you move your cutter wheel across the glass surface. Sometimes you can still break along such a score line, but the results are not very predictable. This is especially important when cutting some of the thin dichroic or other fusing glass.

They are, as it were, train-bearers in the pageant of life, and hold a glass up to humanity, frailer than itself. We see ourselves at second-hand in them: they show us all that we are, all that we wish to be, and all that we dread to be.... What brings the resemblance nearer is, that, as they imitate us, we, in our turn, imitate them.... There is no class of society whom so many persons regard with affection as actors.
—William Hazlitt (1778–1830)

2. Also, avoid pressing too lightly when making the score. This will be evident in several ways. You will not be able to hear the score being made and/or the score line will be very faint, if visible at all. In thicker glass especially it will be very difficult to break along such a score or the break will not follow the score line and may veer off in a direction you do not want. A good score will be visible, consistent, and will break easily. It will be made with a medium but firm, consistent pressure. I have found this easier to do using a pistol-grip glass cutter which is more ergonomic to hold. Also, by leaning my body weight into my score, rather than relying only on pressure from the wrist, I have had better success. Standing while scoring is recommended rather than sitting down, I have found.

Arlene Holtz is a professional artist working in fused glass and oil painting. She has worked with art glass for over 25 years, making stained glass windows as well as fused dichroic glass jewelry and other fused art glass objects. She enthusiastically loves to share her knowledge and has taught many classes in stained and fused glass. Visit her website at [http://www. ArlenesArtworks.com]

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